Posted in Microcontrollers, Software Development Tagged microcontrollers, pic32, rust Post navigation If you want to look even deeper, check out the kind of work that goes into writing a bare metal kernel in Rust. Unsure what Rust is or what it offers? Check out the basics here, and see if it’s something that interests you. had to jump through a few hoops to get the right tools working, but thoughtfully documented the necessary steps, and provides a bare minimum hardware list. If you have a working knowledge of the basics of microcontroller programming, you’ll be fine. admits that when he got started, his microcontroller programming skills were a bit rusty, so don’t let yourself think setting this up is beyond your abilities. has you covered with his primer on programming a PIC32 with Rust, which will have you blinking an LED in no time. I don't know if this is some peculiarity about my particular hardware since this doesn't seem to be a widely reported issue, but if you're having battery life trouble with your Macro with a fresh battery, this might be worth looking at.Got a PIC32 microcontroller and a healthy curiousity about the Rust programming language and its low-level capabilities, but unsure how to squash the two of them together with a minimum of hassle? If that’s the case, then today is your lucky day! I shifted the speaker connections to SPL0 and Headphone pin 1 (which disconnects when headphones are inserted) I started playing with different placement options, SPL0 to VGND, SPR0 to VGND, trying the original speaker, soldering to the top screen ribbon cable pads, all of those options yielded the same battery life result sadly.Īfter poking around with the multimeter in continuity mode a bit more, I discovered that the Audio ground on the headphone jack is not electrically continuous with the ground at the power connector! I didn't let it run to completion, but with headphones, it was running over 6 hours.Īfter doing some probing with the multimeter, ruled out everything but the speaker. I also re-ran the test with headphones plugged in. The 330 Ohm resistor, speaker across SPL0 and VGND, and removal of the top screen ribbon connector were the only modifications to the board at this point, so I checked that the resistor was correctly installed, that all of my solder joints were good, and I desoldered the old ribbon connector point and inspected with a loupe to check for bridges.Īfter reading into some threads. So I figured there had to be something wrong in my setup or on the board. Knowing that DS Lites are known for their battery life, and that it's only powering 1 screen, I figured it was a bum battery, but I set up my LiPo charger to charge it and was surprised to find that it was charging to close to full rated capacity. The test I ran was with the Macro running full volume, default brightness, with an EZ Flash Omega with the latest firmware running the Pokemon Emerald intro screen on loop until it shut down. The donor DS Lite for the macro was of unknown age/battery use, so after I finished the build (following the same method as all of the popular video build guides, 330 ohm resistor, ), I did a run time test to see how the battery was holding up. Hey all, I recently finished up my first two Gameboy mods, one of which being a Gameboy Macro
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